Tulove grede

TULOVE GREDE – TREĆA SREĆA ILI KAKO VRATITI DUG DOMOVINI

Planine  su mjesta koja treba upoznavati postupno;  ne treba se  truditi sve vidjeti  iz prvog pokušaja i u što kraćem vremenu. Polako se približavati vrhu, pokušavati s više strana, svaki put malo dalje – u tome  pronalazimo zadovoljstvo i smisao našeg boravka u prirodi. Kao da nam je glavni cilj  postupno napredovanje, a sporedni  samo „zabijanje zastavice na vrh“. Lijepo je i to, naravno, ali u sebi ujedno nosi klicu rastanka i gubitka. Osvojen vrhunac  pomalo  zaboravljamo, rastajemo se od njega, kao da je izgubionešto od svoje magnetne privlačnosti.
I onda, često i nakon nekoliko godina, poželimo ponovni susret s njim:  da obnovimo stare uspomene, možda vodeći sa sobom neku drugu osobu  kojoj želimo  pokloniti naše male tajne, podijeliti s njom  čari šume, mir,tišinu i široke vidike.

Majstorska cesta i Tulove grede
Tulove grede kao najljepši  ukras na jedinoj makadamskoj cesti preko Velebita, a i sama Majstorska cesta kao spomenik kulture, zaokupljale su našu pažnju već više od godine dana. Vozili smo se njome i gore i dolje, i od Sv. Roka preko Malog Halana, Kraljičinim vratima prema Tulovim gredama, pa se spuštali preko Praga i Podpraga, sve do autoceste i dalje do Obrovca. Drugi dan iz Obrovca prema gore, prema kamenim magnetima koji su nas mamili svojom osunčanom bjelinom i snagom.
Prvi smo se put samo zaustavili u podnožju kamenih ljepotica, potražili stazu, raspitali se malo o njenoj sigurnosti. Činilo nam se da različite pozicijena cesti pružaju dovoljno ljepote velebitskog krajolika da nam je penjanje na vrh izgledalo kao“ traženje kruha preko pogače“, „uvreda“ za Planinu i nepoštivanje Prirode.
Drugi smo se put, u društvu našeg četveronošca popeli prilično visoko, uživajući u širini pogleda na moćne velebitske vrhove, kanjon Zrmanje i morsku obalu.  Neočekivana prepreka u obliku sajle i nepripremljenost svih nas za „akrobatske“ vještine, odvratili su nas od daljnjeg uspona: bilo nam je i to dovoljno, korak dalje od prošli put, opet nešto novo, jedan korak bliže „srcu planine“, a opet još toliko toga lijepog pred nama…

Treća sreća
5.kolovoza 2014.na Dan domovinske zahvalnosti, krećemo prije zore iz Zadra prema Obrovcu.Namjera nam je bila da preduhitrimo zoru, odnosno da dočekamo izlazak sunca na vrhu Greda. Nažalost, u njihovu smo  podnožju , iza vjetrobranskog zida, došli  kad se već dobrano razdanilo, a sunce samo što nije izašlo. Brzo obuvam gojzerice a moj pratilac prti zajedničku naprtnjaču. Za koju minutu smo već na stazi i žurnim se korakom penjemo. Nakon 15-ak min hoda obasjalo nas je izlazeće sunce, ispunilo ushitom, ali i tugom što već nismo  na vrhu.

Izlazeće sunce ipak me je „prosvijetlilo“: sjetio sam se da nisam ponio hrvatsku zastavicu koju u specijalnim prilikama stavljam na svoj mini-terenac. A mogla je lijepo vijoriti u čast domovine i nama penjačima biti na ponos. Sada je bilo  kasno za povratak jer smo već ušli među stijene, prevalili dobar komad puta.
Šteta, danas je prava prilika da se slikamo s hrvatskim barjakom, zaključujemo sa žaljenjem.
Već sam ranije upozorio svojeg mladog kolegu da je to područje bilo  minirano, ali je staza očišćena, pa išao sam njome već dva puta. Samo što sam to rekao, kad ugledasmo nasred staze štapić s crvenim gornjim dijelom, a sa svake strane ukoso još po jedan udaljen metar-dva.
Postali smo oprezni i s nevjericom se pitali: Što će taj štapić nasred staze?! Ići dalje ili se vratiti?
Treća sreća (deviza s kojom smo krenuli)  nije nam  dala da odustanemo na pola puta.  Budući da nismo ugledali nikakav natpis o minama, kakvih je dosta duž „Majstorice“, krenuli smo dalje i uskoro došli do sajle kojom se treba spustiti.
Svladali smo tu prepreku lakše nego što smo mislili i nastavili dalje putem koji je postajao sve zahtjevniji, što je možda bilo i dobro jer nismo  mislili na one  crveno  obojene štapiće. Svaki smo se čas zaustavljali da uživamo u prizorima stjenovitog carstva Greda,  Svetog brda prekrivenog oblacima, krajolika  Zrmanje. I tada, odjednom čujem Davora  kako me iznenađeno upozorava na nekakve kosti u jednom udubljenju. Desetak kostiju POREDANIH u malom brlogu!?
„Ljudske valjda nisu?  Prekratke su“,odgovorim u šali.

I zaista, svojom dužinom od dvadesetak  centimetaraodgovarale bi, zaključivali smo, ovčjim, a možda i vučjim? Tješili smo se da ovaca u tom kraju još uvijek ima, iako puno manje nego prije. Pa vidjeli smo i nešto kao  napušteni pastirski stan, a u podnožju stado ovaca…(Poslije smo saznali da se radi o ratnom skloništu naših boraca, a ne o pastirskom stanu.)
„Očito su poredane“,nastavio je Davor, „pa  se vjerojatno radi o još jednoj neslanoj šali kao i štapići na stazi.“

Vrh nam se sve više smiješio, a na njemu  hrvatski barjak  smotan do neprepoznatljivosti:  kao da je tražio da ga netko razmota, barem na današnji dan. Sve nas je to učvrstilo u uvjerenju da stvarne opasnosti nema. Odustajanje više nije dolazilo u obzir iako je sve češće trebalo koristiti i ruke da bi se svladala poneka stijena.

Sva sreća što nijedan od nas dvojice nije stokilaš jer bi u protivnom netko morao ostati ispred uskog prolaza, 5 min do vrha: kao da neki tajni čuvar vrha nije htio da se po njemu šepire  „debelokošci“. I mi smo se morali bočno provući kroz tjesnac, a nakon toga još malo, i evo nas, nakon 90-ak min, na vrhu,  gdje nas je, kao svoje osloboditelje, dočekao smotani  barjak. Srećom, primijetismo podugački kolac u blizini, kojim ga  je Davor počeo odmotavati. Svakim kružnim pokretom  barjak je postajao sve duži, dok se nije potpuno ispružio u svoj  svojoj ljepoti, klizeći i poput biča pucketajući na valovima oštrog vjetra.

 Ostali smo na vrhu prilično dugo, uživajući  u vidiku i slikajući krajolik „Lijepe naše“ . Naročito nas je mamilo Sveto brdo koje se čas više – čas manje  pomaljalo između kumulusa u smjeru sjeverozapada. Slikali smo se i zajedno, s uzdignutim rukama i ponosno-šaljivo uzviknuli „Imamo je!“


Dobro raspoloženi, s mišlju da smo „vratili dug domovini, spuštali  smo se istim putem. Susret sa Željkom iz Kutine, planinarom koji najčešće planinari sam, bio nam jeitekako ugodan i koristan jer je on „stari planinski vuk“. Između ostalog, uputio  nas je kako doći terencem što bliže Sv.brdu i tako uštedjeti sat-dva hoda.

 

 

 

Mile Šarlija i legende o Cesti

Na povratku se Davor prošetao, ne mareći za planinarsku stazu,   do „pastirskog stana“, iako mi to baš i nije bilo drago, iz već navedenog razloga. Da se nije dobro igrati s tim stvarima, uvjerio nas je naš novi poznanik, sedamdesetogodišnji  Mile Šarlija, domorodac koji veći dio godine provodi u dolu pod Tulovim gredama.Naime, i on je čuo da su dvoje njemačkih turista  planinareći Velebitom, u blizini Tulovih greda naletjeli na minu. Srećom, nije imala okidač…
Kao gostoljubiv domaćin, Mile nas je pozvao da sjednemo  pred kuću i isprobamo njegov specijalitet – rakiju travaricu koja je ujedno i medica. Pohvalili smo gorko-slatki okus i ponudili mu da kuša Davorov proizvod –  rakiju od rogača.
Pričao nam je o svom sudjelovanju u Domovinskom ratu i poznanstvu s Gotovinom i Gavranom. O potonjem, tragično preminulom junaku koji ima spomenik-kapelicu uz cestu, nedaleko Tulovih greda, s gorčinom u glasu je tvrdio da je ubijen od nekog našeg borca, a ne od četničkog metka. Jer, rekao je, dobio je metak u potiljak!
Uz  rakijicu je bilo ugodno slušati još žilavog i čilog Milu kako priča legendu o Romanu, talijanskom graditelju Majstorske ili, kako je neki Dalmatinci zovu Careve ceste (po caru Franji koji ju je dao izgraditi). Mile je očito više vjerovao u legendu koja kaže da je dotični Romano, kad su mu po završetku ceste(1832.) prigovorili da ona ima i nedostataka, bio toliko ogorčen da je otišao u kamenolom i tamo izvršio samoubojstvo. Tom je kamenolomu ime Romanovac, a i kamenu izvađenom iz njega – romanovac.
Pokušao sam blago razuvjeriti Milu i spomenuti mu neke članke koje govore o tome da je glavni graditelj ceste bio naš vojni inženjer i graditelj Josip Kajetan Knežić, ali bez uspjeha. Pustili smo ga da nam ispriča još neke detalje vezane za  cestu. O nesreći koja se 1987. dogodila na prvom velikom zavoju s primorske strane, postoji i ploča s natpisom. Mile je poznavao sve sudionike nesreće,pa i poginule koji su se vozili u teretnom dijelu „tamića“ i zbog toga ispali iz vozila.
Nevjerojatno je zvučala njegova interpretacija legende o Kraljičinim vratima: Kraljicu su, zajedno s pratnjom napali vukovi i sve rastrgali…
O kojoj je kraljici riječ? Crnih zlih kraljica ima više: Barbara Celjska, Grčka  kraljica, Teuta, žena Bele IV. U kakvoj su vezi one s kraljicom iz Kraljičinih vrata? PD Ravna gora u svom web-putopisu Foto-safari na Tulovim gredama, navodi:Prema narodnoj predaji na stijenama su se iz jaja legli zmajevi, u stijenama živjele nevidljive velebitske vile. Također se vjerovalo da je među kamenitim stijenama svoje dvore imala i Crna kraljica, obučena u crno, koja je donašala nesreću. Po njoj se nazvao i prijevoj Kraljičina vrata, između duboke uvale Praška lokva (Jurkovića vrti) i prijevoja Mali Halan (ili Alan).Kad bi čovjek mogao saznati i druge verzije iste priče! Poradit ćemo na tome. Zasad smo saznali „daje tuda kraljica supruga Bele IV. bježala pred Tatari iz Ugarske u Dalmaciu. Još se i danas od toga zove kod naroda jedna poderta pećina: Kraljičina vrata“.(1)
Na odlasku smo upoznali i Milinu suprugu koja se upravo vraćala s ovcama. Rekao nam je da mu je supruga teta Luke Modrića, a Lukin pradjed (?) da je bio cestar na Majstorskoj cesti. Upitali smo u šali kako je Luka, je l’ pita što za tetu u domovini.
„Pa, tako, tako…, mogao bi malo češće“, uzvratila je gđa Šarlija, a Mile pridodao u šali:
„Nije se baš pokazao!“
Rastali smo se od bračnog para Šarlija, njihovih ovaca i hrvatskog ovčara, te krenuli u dobrom raspoloženju prema Malom Alanu i legendarnim Kraljičinim vratima.

 

Još malo avanture prije rastanka
Budući da nam je Mile spomenuo kako postoje neke šumske i lovačke ceste prema Dušicama i Sv.brdu, prošli smo Prijelaz i, nakon 5-10 min spuštanja ličkom padinom, stigli do križanja  na kojem je lijeva cesta bila označena planinarskom oznakom i izblijedjelim natpisom „Dušice  Sv.Brdo“. Više iz znatiželje krenuli smo tim smjerom. Uz određene poteškoće zbog lošeg puta prepunog vododerina i blatnjavih lokava, u grobnoj šumskoj tišini  uokvirenoj zlokobnim natpisima „ Oprez mine“, stigli do  bukve sa sličnim nečitkim oznakama.
Procijenili smo da dalje ne bi trebalo stavljati na kušnju našeg „Jimnyja“, što zbog strmine i blata, a što zbog nesigurnih informacija na GPS-u i nejasnim šumskim oznakama…
Bilo je dosta 5.5 km divljine, vratili smo se na „Majstoricu “ i odlučili prebrojiti grobove naših boraca iz Domovinskog rata. Taj dan je bilo dosta prometno jer su rođaci i prijatelji obilazila posljednja počivališta svojih preminulih. Petnaestak grobnih spomenika, imena je naravno, više, a najimpozantniji je Gavranov. Kad smo se zaustavili tik do njegove kapelice, dočekao nas je jak vjetar i olujno nevrijeme koje je svoje  oblačne stupove zlokobno spustilo u daljini zadarskog zaleđa.

Zaustavili smo se još na Podpragu, uz crkvicu sv. Franje Asiškog, a odmah iza nas zaustavila su se i dva velika džipa zadarskih registarskih pločica i oznakama „Safari“. Grupa Nijemaca je očito uživala u velebitskim čarima. Ne znamo jesu li im vodiči što govorili o povijesti ceste, a možda i spomenuli da je u jednoj od srušenih i zapuštenih stambenih objekata uz cestu, svoj cestarski radni vijek proveo Lukin pradjed.Samo nekoliko desetaka metara niz cestu, zapuštena stoji i rodna kuća Borisa Marune, hrvatskog pjesnika, prevoditelja te veleposlanika Republike Hrvatske u Republici Čileu. Stali smo nakratko i kod kamenoloma Romanovca, a zatim se polako spustili na asfaltiranu cestu, gledajući  „naše“ grede i zastavu.
Nikola Butorac i Davor Jokić

  1. Prema knjizi Dragutina Seljana, Zemljopis pokrajinah ilirskih.Pogledati i suvremeni  znanstveni pristup ovoj tematici u radu Mirjane Trošelj :Mitske legende i predaje južnovelebitskogPodgorja

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